Fair Trade or Foul Play? Fashion Giants Address Labour Concerns in Mauritius

This comes in the wake of disturbing revelations of labour rights abuses and forced labour practices, particularly among migrant workers.

The revelations have sent shockwaves through the fashion industry, implicating multiple brands.

In a groundbreaking development, leading fashion brands such as Barbour and PVH, which owns iconic labels like Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, have committed to compensating garment workers in Mauritius with a significant sum of £400,000. This comes in the wake of disturbing revelations of labour rights abuses and forced labour practices, particularly among migrant workers, uncovered by Transparentem, a U.S.-based organization dedicated to investigating workers’ rights.

Transparentem’s rigorous investigation spanned over 2022 and 2023, focusing on conditions at five factories in Mauritius. The investigation included interviews with 83 workers and found multiple signs of forced labour, which is categorized as modern slavery by the United Nations’ International Labour Organization. The reported violations were severe, encompassing not only illegal recruitment fees but also deception, intimidation, and appalling living conditions, including a lack of clean drinking water and infestations of bedbugs and cockroaches.

The revelations have sent shockwaves through the fashion industry, implicating multiple brands. These factories were suppliers to renowned fashion brands like Boden, Asos, and the Foschini Group, which owns Whistles and Hobbs. As a result, the implicated brands initiated their own audits and subsequently committed to reimbursing workers for illegal recruitment fees.

Specifically, PVH, Barbour, and Second Clothing have pledged a total compensation amounting to 420,593 USD to workers at REAL Garments Ltd., a factory that produces apparel for brands including Armani and Diesel. PVH committed to repaying 390,456 USD, Barbour pledged 19,523 USD, and Second Clothing agreed to 10,614 USD. These commitments come after the brands conducted independent evaluations of the factory conditions, confirming the severity of the labour rights abuses.

Ben Skinner, the president of Transparentem, emphasized the courage exhibited by migrant workers who came forward with their testimonies. He stated, “To date, only three brands have shown by their actions that they really listened to them. The cost of reform is high. But the cost of failure to reform is higher.” The commitment by PVH and Barbour signifies a crucial step towards acknowledging the gravity of the situation and taking tangible remedial action.

While these brands have taken immediate steps to address the issue, others have remained silent or offered insufficient responses. Although Transparentem reached out to 18 buyers associated with the suppliers, including Armani, Asos, and Boardriders, among others, not all have responded with adequate measures. While some companies stated they had ceased sourcing from the implicating factories, they failed to address their prior involvement during the period of reported abuses.

Interestingly, Asos, the parent company of multiple brands like Topshop and Miss Selfridge, has been involved in several initiatives aimed at improving conditions for migrant workers in Mauritius. The company even endorsed a letter to the Mauritius Government organized by Transparentem. However, its specific response to the recent findings remain unclear as they did not respond to requests for comment.

In contrast, Western Glove Works offered a partial commitment by allocating 50,000 USD for worker reimbursement but withheld a complete commitment, pending additional external support. The diverse reactions from various brands underscore the complexities and challenges inherent in addressing systemic labour rights abuses in global supply chains.

This incident serves as a poignant reminder of the critical need for increased transparency and accountability within the fashion industry. The decisive actions undertaken by PVH, Barbour, and other conscientious stakeholders signify a watershed moment, setting a precedent for ethical sourcing practices and reaffirming the imperative of prioritizing human rights over profit margins. As the industry navigates this intricate terrain, the collective endeavour to rectify past injustices remains paramount, shaping a more equitable and transparent future for all stakeholders involved.